We are coming down to the end of
the garden clean-up. The perennial beds
have been cut back to stubs and even the grasses are looking weary. What we are left with are… oak leaves.
We have perhaps two hundred
trees on our two-acre property. There is
a healthy mix of specimen trees we planted over the past 14 years (oxydendron,
forest pansy redbud, heptacodium, dogwood, cornelian cherry, etc.), but the
preponderance of our little forest are trees that were on the property when we
got here.
This fifty-foot oak on our property still has some leaves to shed. |
Among the latter group are
twenty or more oaks. The largest are over
fifty years old and sixty feet high but we have them in all sizes. What all of the oaks have in common is that
they all wait to drop their leaves until after the other trees on the property
have done so. Around our home, the maples, ash and birch all shed their leaves
in October. Even the pines completed
their needle drop by the end of the month.
It is now mid-November and a good gust of wind can still bring down a
cascade of oak leaves.
The lawn was mowed yesterday. Last night's storm left it looking like this. |
Oak leaves are the savior of
lawn services. Maples, for example, drop
their leaves quickly: typically in two
weeks or less. Moreover, they are ‘thin’
leaves and their C:N ratio (carbon to nitrogen) is around 20. This means they break down very rapidly when
simply mowed into the lawn. The mulched
leaves return the same nutrients needed for next year’s growth. Lawn services, or course, are not in the
business of letting Mother Nature do for free what three guys with a truck can
do for a fee. When the maple leaves fall, there’s a single
visit to rake/suck up the leaves and leave the lawn looking neat and tidy. Lawn ‘nutrition’ will be added later in the
form of a ‘fall (chemical) fertilization’.
If not cleared, oak leaves will form a mat that smothers whatever is underneath it, like our rock garden. |
Oak leaves, on the other hand,
can take a month or more to drop. Their C:N
ratio is 60:1 and the leaves are both thick and heavy with tannin. What this means is that the leaves decompose
very slowly (because of the preservative property of the tannin) and, once on
the ground, they stay there. A diligent
lawn care company can milk oak leaf season for half a dozen clean-up trips. Clients pay because there are few things as
ugly as an oak-leaf-strewn lawn.
We, of course, don’t use a lawn
service. The earlier, non-oak leaf drops
were all mowed into the lawn and have long since disappeared. The oak leaves, on the other hand, have
another fate: we turn them into mulch.
It’s a laborious process but well worth it.
Here’s what we do: first, we rake all of the leaves out of the
various beds and onto the lawn. We do
this because oak leaves tend to mat.
Because they’re not drying out after they fall, they’re still pancake-flat
after several weeks. If you get a layer
of oak leaves six or eight thick, it turns into a smothering blanket over your
lawn or perennial bed and little moisture gets through. The result is snow mold and other diseases.
These chopped-up oak leaves are spread on our beds as a protective mulch for the perennials. |
Next, we chop up the leaves with
our lawn mower and bag them. Then, the
well-chopped leaves go right back onto the beds as a mulch. They won’t mat because they’ve now been torn
into tiny pieces. Bacteria have a lot
more edges to chew on, hastening their composting. The oak-leaf mulch provides
insulation for the plants in the beds (preventing heaving), a moisture barrier to
keep water in the soil from evaporating, and a slow-acting compost to enrich
the soil.
By spring, the oak leaves will
have mostly disappeared and we’ll put down a layer of brown wood mulch for the
season. In the meantime, we’ve taken a
problem (those drab oak leaves) and turned them into an asset.
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