A month ago, I wrote about the pleasure of visiting places
that had been off-limits during the nearly three-month pandemic shutdown of
March through May. I wrote of feasting
on fried clams at Farnham’s, spooning my first mouthful of chocolate chocolate chip
ice cream at White Farms and, primarily, of seeing several gardens that could not
accept visitors because of Covid-19.
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A pergola in full June glory. Double-click for a full-screen slideshow of the garden. |
The Coastal Maine Botanical Garden was at the top of our post-pandemic bucket list
of places to visit.
It’s a spectacular site
in an enchanted spot.
It has the best of
both worlds: a beautifully conceived and executed garden, with a location that
makes it a worth-a-journey destination in its own right: that proverbial
rock-bound coast of Maine just up the road from Boothbay Harbor.
CMBG finally opened, however tentatively, at the beginning of
June. Our original plan was to go as
close to opening day as possible; we even had tickets in hand. But life intervened and that first journey
had to be scrubbed. We purchased a new
set of tickets for late June, using their website (no walk-ins allowed) to place our order. CMBG’s protocol allows for just 50 timed admissions
every half hour from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (the garden closes at 5 p.m.). For those keeping tally, that’s only 650
guests per day. In 2018, the garden
hosted 200,000 guests; with a roughly 100-day season, that’s 2,000 visitors per
day. The garden is operating at about one-third of its capacity.
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To get there, we had to break the law
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It was perfectly legal to purchase those tickets.
Using them was a different story.
There was just one minor problem: by going to
Maine, we were breaking the law.
CMBG’s website contains
this paragraph: “Please note that all
State of Maine CDC guidelines need to be met by Gardens visitors, including the
State’s 14-day quarantine requirement for those coming into Maine. Please also
note that Maine has lifted the quarantine requirement for residents of New
Hampshire and Vermont. Beginning July 1, residents of other states who have had
a negative COVID-19 test within 72 hours may also visit without a quarantine
period.”
In my defense let me say this: at this writing, Massachusetts
is a national model for its ‘taming’ of the coronavirus curve.
After a horrific March (a major biotech
company held a global conference in Boston in February that helped seed
hundreds, if not thousands, of cases), Massachusetts locked itself down and slowly
opened up with a rational plan that appears to have worked.
You want a statistic? For the first seven days of July, Massachusetts has a total of 1,092 confirmed cases. Today (July 7), the number was 140. However, Maine recognizes only its two
northern New England neighbors as kindred spirits.
Everyone else is asked to sequester
themselves indoors for two weeks before going out in public.
The idea of renting a hotel room for two weeks
in order to enjoy a day’s visit seems, well, a bit much.
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What greets you once inside
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Moreover, the Lodging Gods were telling us to stay home.
It’s 190 miles and a three-and-a-half-hour
trip from Medfield to Boothbay Harbor. Technically, you can drive there and back in a day,
and still have three or more hours to enjoy the site (especially with 15 hours
of sunlight).
However, we’ve reached the
age when driving up one day, staying overnight, and starting fresh the next is
an exceptionally appealing option.
Except hotels weren’t taking guests. Our ‘usual place’, a hotel roughly 15 miles
from the garden, was apparently open only for front-line workers; and a letter
of medical need was required to check in.
We finally found a hotel in Freeport, 30 miles from the garden. They cautioned us they would not be serving
meals and, by the way, they were not aware of any nearby restaurants offering
takeout.
It didn’t matter. A
week before our planned departure, the hotel manager called to apologize they
wouldn’t be opening before mid-July, and so had taken the liberty of canceling our reservation. Never mind.
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The new bog garden
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We decided to make it a day trip.
We did so knowing full well we might be
turned back at the border or at the admissions desk.
We could drive seven hours and have nothing
to show for it but a lot of toll charges on our EZ-Pass statement.
But we also knew we felt fine and had been practicing
social distancing and mask-wearing as a matter of course.
Other than the two of us, no one has been in our house in four months. Also, we take our temperature daily.
Neither of us even cracked 98 degrees.
We set out before 6:30 a.m. and, by 8:30, we were on the
Piscataqua River Bridge separating New Hampshire from Maine. Then, just over the border, we saw the first
overhead sign asking us to self-quarantine for 14 days. Nervous, we declined the opportunity to stop
at the official Welcome to Maine Rest Area lest a state trooper take an interest
in our red-and-white Massachusetts plate and inquire of our itinerary.
We arrived at the garden a few minutes before our 10 a.m. admission
time. The parking lot held fewer than
100 cars. We donned our masks and, just
outside the entrance hall, were greeted warmly by a docent who pointed out the
remnants of several thousand tulips planted last fall in expectation of welcoming
April and May visitors. “Nobody but the
staff got to see them,” the docent said ruefully.
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A reminder to social distance
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At the admission desk, we handed over the printout of our
tickets.
No request for a negative
Covid-19 test.
No demand for a
quarantine certificate.
Our tickets were
scanned.
That was it.
We were inside.
CMBG is an ever-expanding and evolving wonder. Conceived in 1991 by a dedicated group of area
residents, and first opened in 2007, it is now 295 acres in size (including a
mile of frontage along the Back River) with 17 acres of gardens and miles of
trails (the 17 acre figure is from their website and may be out of date as the
map doesn’t show their newly opened ‘bog garden’).
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Garden intelligence: milkweed, viburnum and allium grown together
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The gardens are intelligently planned and beautifully
maintained.
All around us, a combination
of volunteers and staff were planting summer annuals even as spent spring
bulbs were being cleaned up.
While
going down the quite steep Haney Hillside Garden, we chanced upon one of the
CMBG horticulturalists, a woman named Allison, who had only recently been 'given' responsibility for the hillside garden. She was friendly, informative and enthusiastic about her role. As we parted, she shouted, "Don't miss the meditation garden!" We did indeed visit the garden and, like so many things at CMBG, it is equal parts whimsy, beauty, and thoughtfulness.
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A map of the garden. The Meditation Garden is at the top, right-hand side of the diagram
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In visiting the garden, we had an opportunity to have
impressed on us the financial tightrope many gardens are walking.
The cash flow and profits from their café and
snack stands is not there.
Their revenue
from gate admissions is likely down by two-thirds.
It takes deep pockets and generosity to keep
everything looking good in the face of a disaster no one could have seen
coming.
Yet, the many docents are out and as friendly as ever. This is
an enterprise with an educational mission being fulfilled despite uncertain
times. For once in my life, I’m glad we broke
the law. Institutions like CMBG deserve
our support.