A century ago, Massachusetts was the unquestioned cranberry capital of the world; its products were the industry gold standard and fetched premium prices for a scarce commodity. Why cranberries and why Massachusetts? Because cranberries grew best in moist sandy acidic soil; and the glaciers that created Cape Cod retreated to leave hundreds of square miles of exactly that recipe. Beginning in the 1890s, growers cleared land, dammed creeks, and planted the bogs that were ideal for cranberry cultivation.
You can still see working cranberry bogs as you approach Cape Cod, but there are fewer of them today than just decades ago. Why are they disappearing? Because selective breeding led to cranberry cultivars that double the yield of their native ancestors, as well as offering uniform size, color, and even flavor. Wisconsin – where the state’s lightly populated central and northern regions feature flat, low-lying marshlands left behind by ancient glacial lakes, paired with naturally acidic, sandy peat soils where cranberries thrive – leaped to adopt the new cultivars and offered a lower cost of production. Wisconsin overtook Massachusetts in 1994 and today produces half of the world’s crop.
What became
of those unprofitable cranberry bogs in Massachusetts? Did they become planned communities? Remarkably,
through programs led by the Massachusetts Division of Ecological Restoration, Mass Audubon, and federal partners, landowners are instead
utilizing a "green exit strategy” which uses state and federal grants to
buy out distressed or unproductive bogs and restore them to their original,
self-sustaining natural wetlands and become public nature preserves.
I had the opportunity this past weekend to visit one such site: Mass Audubon’s Tidmarsh Wildlife Sanctuary in Plymouth. I was part of a group of Grow Native Massachusetts volunteers being thanked for their hours of work by getting an expert-led, two-hour-long, in-depth look at the site (that's me on the far right).
A working cranberry farm for 120 years, this landscape underwent the largest freshwater ecological restoration ever completed in the Northeast. Now Tidmarsh is a 481-acre property that is home to a vast expanse of cold-water streams, ponds, forest, and woodlands.
The cranberry farm ceased operation in 2010. Its owners, Evan Schulman, Glorianna Davenport, and their family could have sold their land for development. Instead, they did something remarkable: they committed to restoring the wetlands to its pre-agricultural splendor. Working with the state, they undertook the largest freshwater ecological restoration ever attempted in the Northeast, re-creating habitats at Tidmarsh including ponds, cold-water streams, red maple and Atlantic white cedar swamps, grasslands, and pine-oak forest.
The process included the removal of nine dams. A subterranean freshwater stream was gently excavated and more than three miles of channel were created. In the process, thousands of tons of sediment were removed. The result was the re-connection of the headwaters of Beaver Dam Brook with Cape Cod Bay. Within a few years, migrating and spawning fish such as river herring, brook trout, and American eel were moving back and forth between the salt water bay and freshwater brook.
With the
cranberries gone, native plants immediately began emerging. Those plants, in
turn, attracted a wide variety of insect, reptile, and bird species that had
not been seen on the property for a century or more.
The
restoration also addressed one other issue: the widespread mining of quartz-
and silica-rich sand deposits on the site. The mined sand is used in
glassmaking, fiber-optics and semiconductor wafers. The mining, however, also threatens
the fragile aquifer that provides drinking water to that part of Massachusetts.
When restoration specialists first inspected the mining site, it was barren rock and sand with nothing growing. “It might as well be Mars,” was the common reaction. As the photo at right shows, in sixteen years, soil replenishment and the planting of native pines, grasses, and shrubs has created a stunning change. While walking its perimeter at the end of our tour, we came across a sign on wood reading simply, ‘Life on Mars’.
Never have
three words better expressed such a transformation.
















































