Yesterday (July 11), with the temperatures in Boston
expected to touch 90 degrees, Betty and I did what all sane New Englanders do: we
headed for the coast.
Cape Ann is 'the other cape' |
For the uninitiated, Massachusetts has two ‘capes’ on its
coast. The one people refer to when then
say they are ‘going down to the Cape for the weekend’ is Cape Cod and,
yesterday morning, the backups on the Bourne and Sagamore Bridges were four and
six miles, respectively.
The other ‘cape’ is Cape Ann. Cape Ann is an afterthought for most New
Englanders and it barely registers if you are from outside the region. As it turns out, this state of affairs suits
Cape Ann residents just fine. Unlike
that ‘other’ Cape, the citizens of Gloucester and Rockport can traverse the A. Piatt
Andrew Bridge spanning the Annisquam River that separates Cape Ann from the
mainland without fear of hours-long delays.
The pedestrian bridge into Annisquam Village |
Our goal yesterday morning was not beaches but, rather,
gardens. Specifically, we went on the
Gloucester Garden Tour of Annisquam Village.
Annisquam, in turn, is a hidden gem: a beautiful seaside village dating
to 1646 that is suspended in time. Its
houses are a mix of grand and humble.
Streets are narrow, winding, rising, and falling. There are stone outcroppings everywhere that dictate
where homes can and cannot be built.
A garden on the Annisquam tour. Double-click for a full-page show. |
Most garden tours are held by garden clubs. This annual tour (which features a different
part of Cape Ann each year) is the creation of a unique organization: Generous
Gardeners, a Gloucester-based philanthropic organization that raises funds for beautification
projects. Some are carried out by the
organization’s members, other projects are funded through grants to other
groups. And we are not talking about
modest sums. As you come into Gloucester
on Route 128, you encounter Grant Circle, a large and, until last year,
graceless traffic rotary. This year it
sports a new series of glorious beds.
Three area garden clubs banded together in 2014 to raise more than
$100,000 to beautify the rotary; Generous Gardeners provided a hefty
contribution that kick-started funding.
Four other projects are targeted for assistance this year including
expanding the plantings in the center island of Gloucester’s principal downtown
boulevard.
Several of the gardens included painters at work |
But however worthwhile the cause, a $25 garden tour ticket
needs to provide an experience that is both fun and inspiring. Generous Gardeners delivered on both counts,
and it did so with a professionalism that made the day effortless (except for
walking) on the part of tour goers.
A garden with a sweeping ocean view |
There are two ways into Annisquam Village: narrow Leonard
Street and a pedestrian footbridge across Lobster Cove. We parked and checked
in at a school two miles away, and boarded a school bus that let us off on the
Gloucester side of the footbridge. It was an appropriate way to start the tour,
a 300-foot ramble past dozens of boats with the hill upon which the village is
built as a backdrop.
In Annisquam, houses adapt to the geology of the region |
I had been to Annisquam just once, as a speaker earlier this
year for the Cape Ann Garden Club. I had
gotten a sense of the village’s architecture, but not of its gardens. July is
unquestionably the peak of the area’s gardens.
Spirea and hydrangea groan with blooms and spill over walls and fences. Perennial borders blaze with daylilies,
lavender, sage, hosta, fern, and epimedium.
This was my favorite garden: small but intelligent with a framed ocean view |
There were 15 houses on the tour of which we saw 13. While there were several large, beachfront
homes featuring meticulous gardens with sweeping views of Annisquam Harbor and
Wingaersheek Beach beyond, my tour favorite was a small house with a compact
garden. The homeowner compensated for a
small space by emphasizing the vertical drop from the front to the back of the
property. The front garden gave way to a
lushly planted bluestone patio with espaliered pear trees on the side; stepping
down to a narrow, intelligently designed rear perennial border separated from
the small lawn by a winding row of cobblestones. The piece
de resistance? A well-framed view of
the ocean. It was perfect.
Our appreciation for the tour was heightened by the
opportunity to chat with Susan Kelly, founder of Generous Gardeners and organizer
of the tour. As we waited for the bus to
take us back to the school where our car was parked, she spoke of the daunting logistics
required to make the tour happen (for example, a week before the tour, she was
informed that only a single bus would be available – ultimately she negotiated
three).
A great tour requires commensurate signage and an
explanatory guide. Every garden had
multiple docents, the winding course was superbly marked, and the tour book
included a concise ‘what-to-look-for’ in the garden as well as a quick sketch
of the house’s history.
* * * * *
Beneath the 'acrobats' |
Instead of heading home for a cool drink and a well-deserved
rest, we made a 50-mile detour on our way home to another garden Saturday
afternoon. Bedrock Gardens in Lee, New
Hampshire, is a nearly thirty-year-long effort by Jill Nooney and Bob Munger to
create a space that marries art and horticulture. (I first wrote about Bedrock Gardens here.) We were inspired to visit yesterday both to
see how the garden has changed and by the fact that the Garden Conservancy had
chosen to sponsor an Open Day at the property.
Horsehead sculptures guard the parterre garden |
Bedrock Gardens need to be on every serious gardener’s
bucket list. It is unique as far as I
know; a 20-acre garden that is equal parts whimsy and horticultural intelligence. It is also a garden that grows and
changes. To put it another way, seeing Bedrock
Gardens once is like seeing your grandchildren once. You need to make a pilgrimage every year or
so to see how it has evolved.
Unusual plant combinations are the rule |
When you go, plan to stay at least two hours. It will take you that long just to see, from
various vantage points, the 21 ‘points of interest’ listed on the garden
map. If you are serious about
horticulture, add the amount of time appropriate to your knowledge level. Very little in this garden is ‘the usual
suspects’. Instead, unusual variations
are the rule. Take a camera (or a phone
with a high-rez imager) and a notebook.
You’ll find unexpected but imaginative planting combinations that will
send you to nurseries that specialize in lesser-known cultivars.
Part of the 'wiggle-waggle' |
The ‘garden’ part of Bedrock Gardens is primarily the work
of Jill Nooney. Her spouse, Bob Munger, is
credited with creating the walkways, water features and patios that dot the
garden, though he will confess to no greater contribution than the digging of
holes and operation of farm equipment. I’m
willing to accept that division of labor at face value without further
investigation.
The Dark Woods feature flying objects |
The ‘art’ at Bedrock Gardens is both the interplay of plants
and the inspired genius of Jill’s ‘sculptures’.
As the accompanying photos show, Bedrock Gardens is stiff with metal creations
made from industrial scrap. There are
some recent pieces that appear to be the result of binge-watching ‘Game of
Thrones’, but every piece is a delight.
Many are for sale. Suffice it to
say that had the arc welder not been invented, it would be necessary to do so
to encourage the creations on display.
Two items of note:
First, in the past few years, the Friends of Bedrock Gardens has been
organized as a 501(c)3 non-profit. This
both make it easier to support the garden financially, and to ensure that it
survives its two creators. Second, the
garden has four more open weekends between now and October. Those dates are July 18-19, August 15-16,
September 19-20 and October 10-11-12.